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Orgone Technical Bulletin #48
started Feb, 2017

The Channel Program for Resin (and silicone, acrylic, etc.)

This OTB is just about one specific amazing program (written by Antuvozy) that goes into resin as well as other substances that resin programs ordinarily go into such as silicone caulk and plastic.

What the Channel Program does is bring through most of the energies and functions of someone's orgone collection through a device that needs only displace about 1 cubic mm of volume, if even that much. This makes it very convenient and inexpensive to discreetly distribute powerful devices. Of course, how much power comes through any such unit at any time depends on various factors such as what else is going on that urgently needs to be addressed, and how much overall power potential one has to draw from.

One can have the little units programmed to channel either
  • the massive Loohan orgone stash
  • your orgone stash
  • or the stash of a 3rd party who has given permission.
By stash I mean all units rightfully owned by an individual, including those spread all over the countryside. Even if you no longer consider them your property, they still have a connection to you.

Some other points:
  • It can channel any type of positive energy device, so long as it is not corrupt, tainted, or containing evil spells. This includes for example crystals, coils, Vedic/Hindu objects, symbols, various commercial products, etc. A friend of mine even made a plasma tube device, which is eligible.
  • As the stash the small unit channels increases in power (due to adding more orgone devices and/or augmenting/reprogramming existing ones), this power, too, can flow through. Meaning, you can gift some hard-to-access area, and continue to indefinitely increase the power of those gifts later.
  • The program contains state-of-the art Smart Technology :-)
    All the Channel units one has channeling a particular person's devices will act as a group. They sense evil energies and radiate information to each other as well as the devices. Hence, if one has many devices with many different functions and programs, the Channel unit will tend to draw from these whatever is most appropriate, as needed at any time. E.g. a satanist ET hybrid strolls by a unit, and the unit feels the toxic energy and relays this to other units in the vicinity, as well as the orgone devices these channel, such that anti-werewolf etc programs come through. Or maybe instead a bunch of demons move into the area to counter the good energy, so a bunch of jailer functions come through. Or you could place a unit on an appliance, and grid-blasting energies etc would come through.
    The units should also automatically ramp up or wind down specific energies as they are needed, thus making more efficient use of orgone compared with having a constant emission regrdless of fluctuating needs. Also, intermittent blasting of a target can be just as effective as continuous blasting, resulting in more economic distribution of orgone. (Intermittent blasting probably won't happen if you only have a few simple orgone devices to draw on. But it should work if your units are programmed for my stash, as I have a great many varied sophisticated devices.)
    If healing is your interest, you could make a bunch of March2015B, PRG, and Ighina stuff (even rough quartz takes the Ighina program) etc. and channel that. (The energy that is most reliably available to draw from the Loohan orgone stash is anti-evil, not healing.) Even concretite has healing qualities.
  • The program is wandable although the plain wands have less linear range than other pgms; about 40', unless taped, in which case the range is much longer. (See April 2014 entry down this page; most people will not be able to do this sort of taping effectively. However, further down this present page is a standardized application anyone can do, if they can get the proper tape.)

SILICONE seal is just as good as resin for pgms.
One can take a caulk tube of silicone seal, and a caulk gun. Then lay out some thick paper and make long lines of caulk (being sure to get the Channel Pgm as it cures) and later peel off the lines and cut them to bitty pieces with scissors.

Originally I used wax paper, but that takes much longer to dry. Then newspaper, but that means spending much time tearing off bits of paper.
Perhaps heavy paper bag is the best choice when you are in a hurry, as almost no paper tears away with the silicone.
Meanwhile, also squirt some on wax paper. After a week or two, the dry strings pull right off effortlessly. [Update: how effortlessly they pull off depends partly on the variety of silicone caulk. One brand might stick better to slick surfaces than another. How COLD the surface under the wax paper is probably makes a bigger difference, though.] You'll have to work harder to pull the strings off of unwaxed paper.
I often tear these little "boogers" into even smaller pieces with my fingernails as I'm going along. Even the tiniest piece fully channels. [Update: how easily they tear apart also depends on the type of silicone. One type might stick hard to wax paper in spots, but be easy to tear up. Another variety may come right off the wax paper, but be so tough it is hard to tear into little bits.]
Make some to channel Joe's stuff and toss those, too.

There are several ways to make directional wands with this stuff. Here is a simple, easy-to-follow guide, except that the tape seems to only be available in the US. I give instructions further down for ones that do not require tape. In fact, these here do not but will only have 60' linear range without it.

You will need a longitudinal mold. Actually, it needs only be a bit over 2" long, to accommodate the tape, or more like 1" if not using tape, but the most suitable molds I've found so far are cheap ones from Walmart called Drinkmor Silicone Ice Trays, which make wands 3.25" long. I can't find them on google. You can probably find similar ones, although they might be a bit longer.
You will also need some tape designated 1818-fx duct tape, such as Shurtape DC-181 or Flexfix 181b-FX. Other types of tape will not work here.
  • Mark one edge of the mold to indicate where the yang ends will be. You can skip this step if you are sensitive enough to tell by feel.
  • Make sure you have a connection with ChemmerBuster to do the programming. If unsure, email me to line it up.
  • Pour about 1/16" layer in the bottom of each mold slot. More is OK but not advantageous.
  • After this has firmed up, pour a larger layer on top. This serves 2 purposes: it gives the wand some structural backbone, and the pgm it will get (March2015A) is a great program from Joe which is good against a broad spectrum of evil critters and moreover, is a bit synergistic with the Channel Pgm. Wands made this way will be a bit better (maybe 10%) than solid Channel Pgm only. However, if using shallow molds like some cheap grocery-store trays which make thin 3" wands, you can just pour the one pgm only.
    Update: Lately I don't even mess around with these other slightly synergistic pgms. In the interest of efficient, quantity production, I only pour the Channel Pgm, rather thinly.
    But I do a layer that Channels Joe's stuff on top of the one that does mine. Joe's stuff has some functionality that mine lacks, so this is worthwhile and very powerful. Joe doesn't mind. You can also do a 3rd layer to channel your own stuff, for a triple decker.
  • Once cured, mark the yang ends and remove from mold.
  • Then wrap a 4-5 inch piece of the tape around the butt end, leaving about 1/16-1/8 of butt sticking out.
  • Optional: on bury-able wands, I usually cover the tape with some Gorilla tape in the hope of extending the life-span of the Shurtape. This is the white tape in the pic.
Without tape, these will have a 60' linear range. That is, the Channel Pgm by itself only does 40', but the other pgm drags it along further.
With tape, close to 4,000 miles, regardless of whether it is pure Channel Pgm or has both pgms. The beam spreads out some with distance, but also, the energy will tend to focus on any DORy objects found.

I like to go to wooded areas like parks or rest areas, and stick these in the ground. An old screwdriver might help to drill holes. If the ground is too hard, seek out a moist spot. Plant them straight down, or at a slight angle down from the horizontal, or anywhere in between.
If you happen to see an open-topped pipe sticking in the ground, drop one in there. It will increase the range.

Can it help to stick one or two of these in a CB? I think so. Not on any of mine, but I think it would boost most of them out there. In any case, if a wand channeling my stuff was used, it would relay info to my devices about the whereabouts of demons, DORy ETs, nano-metals...

Also, if you have a lot of orgone at your disposal (you may not have much luck hijacking mine for this) you can take a wand programmed to your stuff and use it as a micro-chembuster. If a particular chem-cloud offends you, you can blast it for a while with all your orgone stuff backing it up, and watch it fade out before your eyes. Fun party trick.

Here are some epoxy units. The dark sections are the Channel Pgm. The clear sections got the Nov2016 Pgm, another great pgm from Joe which happens to be synergistic with the Channel Pgm (but not wandable).

Possibly the best resin mold for this pgm is a 160 cube tray.
But is it a more worthwhile expenditure of resources than using the silicone jobbies? I doubt it.
Most of these to the right are full cubes, but subsequently, I only pour a small amount in each sub-mold.
I only put the 1 pgm in these.

Here's how you do it in the absence of American tape. But you will need epoxy putty (or you might make do with epoxy glue that comes in 2 syringes). Any type of epoxy putty is fine, even if it has metal or other additives.
Take pipe of any type of metal; they all work the same for this purpose. They give an additional anti-demon kick, too. I get that the internal diameter should be between 3 and 12 mm. Length? These here are about 2" long (stainless steel as it so happens) and have a range around 7K miles.
You can get cheap tubing cutters at hardware stores to cut the pipe. With very thin tubing, especially stainless steel, it might be better to use a miter box and very fine hacksaw or coping saw blade, at least 32 teeth per inch. Then clean up with a mill file. Unless you feel like investing in a small hobby tubing cutter.

With these, I just stuck a small glob of the putty in the top ends. It needs to set up inside the pipe to get the proper programming. Then the putty was a bit loose so I glued it in place with some other glue.
Another alternative is to make 1" X 1/8" wands with the putty and glue these inside.
The problem with using silicone for these is that it takes too long to cure, and may not get the attention needed to program it fully.

And here is another cool item that can be made with epoxy putty and the special tape. Also, some aluminum tape is required.
This item monitors in 8 directions with a 4K mile radius, despite its diminutive size.

Make eight 1" X 1/8" (approx.) wands. You will need to note which direction is yang. Or any number you want. I chose 8 because it is very easy to space; simply put 4 in a cross shape, then bisect the angles with the other 4.
Stick them on a piece of aluminum tape as depicted. I used extra wide tape. If you use narrower tape, put 2 strips together to make 1 fatter one.
Then cover the exposed side with the Shurtape. It will take 2 pieces, overlapping. No need to cover the aluminum side.
Cut away excess to leave a rough disk shape.

If you happen to be energy-sensitive, you may be able to create extraordinary micro-wands such as this. Approximately 2" long. Range 15,000 miles.

I prefer the metal wands for personal use, as they have a stronger bite on demons.

One thing that can be done with these light wands is to put them on a turntable! One could easily use an old record player, reel-to-reel tape deck, or microwave oven (disable the magnetron) to spin these things.
This is a "DC Micro Worm Geared Motor with Gearbox" from eBay. They all seem to run on 12V.
Note that the wands are staggered so that they don't duplicate each other's paths. (At least now that I switched a couple around after the vid was taken.) I have extra holes to allow different angles if desired. One of the wands points down to sweep for U bases. I may put more doing that.

Here I took the two 8-wand units and glued them to disks. These have 4K mile range as compared to 15K, but that's still not too shabby, and might be more feasible for some people.
I used a 3" hole saw to make the pine disks.
The horizontal wands are the fatter kind from the batch of stainless steel ones in the pic above. Initially they had 2K range but after a few days, reprogrammed to 7K.

Note that the motor shaft hole is offset so that the 8 wands don't duplicate each others' paths.

I set up 2 motors at different speeds and in opposite rotations. The 2 rpm original unit is very quiet, whereas the the 5 rpm has a loud, obnoxious whine. Fortunately, I have an electrified outbuilding. [Update Oct 2017: Mordok and I were both using 2rpm and 5rpm units, and both 5rpms failed after several months. The 2rpms are still working fine. We replaced the 5's with 0.6rpm units which are very quiet and nice.]

Each disk has 2 downward-pointing wands.

If you try this, be sure to wire the motors in parallel rather than in series, duh. Don't ask me why I feel the need to mention that.

Also melted plastic scrap can be programmed. I have not tried this yet, but a friend works at a plastic factory and takes home little scraps with this and other pgms in them. The particular variety of plastic he works with is only about 70% as good as resin, so it requires like 1.5X the volume for the same effect. But the scraps are larger than that. (If you are using expensive resin, it is best to keep the units as small as possible for economy's sake. Larger is not better.)
I suspect most plastic bottles and bags would yield more like 100% of the potency of resin. I have not yet figured out what to use as a mold for plastic, though, to make small pieces. I doubt the plastic would be very pourable, so it might be more ideal to put the scrap into some sort of metal mold that gets heated and also produces long, narrow cast which could be easily cut into pieces with garden clippers. E.g. a slab of metal that has had long grooves cut into it.
Then again, silicone molds are supposed to be bake-resistant, and one could easily make such a mold with a suitable grade of silicone.
Or it might be feasible, using suitable gloves, to roll out soft plastic like clay into a long rope, and cut it while still soft. And roll into wands.

Cool device for plinking silicone boogers: The Pocket Shot Junior, which is sold on Amazon, Walmart, etc.
I love the way Walmart says $12 Free Shipping, when I just bought one in a Walmart store for $10.
A couple years ago I ordered a lawnmower from Walmart for $200 with "free shipping", only to later see they had a bunch of the same ones in the store for $148. They couldn't just tell me on the site that it is available much cheaper in stores. Instead they prefer to take people's money and hand it over to UPS or whoever. That's how much they love customers.
Anyway, I make bigger boogers for use in this, so they have a little mass. With a device like this one can easily plink boogers up close to someone's house, into backyards, etc.
There is also a larger Pocket Shot, but that would not be so good for our boogers, I suspect.

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