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Orgone Technical Bulletin # 7

June-July, 2003
(last edited 10/04)

More on Water Containers in Orgonite

Nothing in the world is as soft and yielding as water,
Yet nothing can better overcome the hard and strong.

- - - Tao Te Ching

This is sort of a continuation of OTB 1, which was on blue water bottles. When I first tried one of those, I had an impression that the completed unit caused a resonance with the water in my body. I'm not certain about that, but it sure felt different when I actually touched it. I had to wonder whether this sort of unit would transmit more of its energy to water it was tossed in.

This bulletin explores types of water to put in units, as well as different types of units with water containers in them.

SAPS' Medicine Wheel Water aka Sally water: On 5/5/3 I received a water wand from Southern Arizona Protective Services. This was a 1' long tube of 1" copper pipe, with a bit of orgonite and coils on one end, and filled with a very special water. After briefly stirring a gallon jar of tap water and then removing the wand, both myself and another energy-sensitive person could feel a tingling when we touched the jar.

Many claims have been made about this water's ability to bust towers, clear underground bases, and the like. All I know is that by contact with the water or a copper pipe containing it, other water will become like it. A jug of such water seems like a sort of orgone generator with a high frequency.
(In fact, I keep some nearby when my orgonite is curing, touching the molds. When feasible I even set the molds in a water bath. Some people believe that any frequency of energy that is affecting orgonite as it cures will be locked into the orgonite.)
Anyway, as soon as I got this water, I gave some to several people to put into wells, creeks, and spring-fed ponds. And put it in many creeks and ponds myself.
My area was a little low on rain, March and April having been a bit dry. Immediately, we started getting plenty of rain. In fact, I measured 9" of precipitation between 5/6 and 5/24.

Is this water stable? SAPS reported that they had a jug sitting around for months, and it increased in power. Without contact with orgonite. This, however, is first-generation water. Laozu reported that some second-generation water he had increased in power after a few days, then decreased. I have also gotten the impression that the water will deteriorate after some time, if not in contact with orgonite. Incidentally, I threw my original wand in a lake, after making some second-generation ones which I used to make third-generation water, which is what I made other water units with. At that time, I noticed no deterioration in potency, and some of the people I have sent the third-gen. to have given rave feedback.)
However, the Medicine Wheel continues to get more powerful. I got some more first-generation water from Sally, the Keeper of the Wheel, in July, and it was quite a bit stronger. And has continued to grow in strength since.
Because of this, I started to place small containers of first-generation water inside larger containers of second-generation. This makes orgonite somewhat optional, as the water stays refreshed.

If you want first-generation Medicine Wheel Water, contact the Keeper of the Wheel, Sally: .
She says it is her impression that orgonite is not needed on first-generation water.

Someone who seems to know about such things told me that special water will become unstructured after some time, due to EMFs and other magnetic fields. Do we need to worry about slight magnetism? I noticed that all my steel turnings, black sand, BBs, baling wire, and magnetite ore cause a response in a compass.
Out of prudence, I am avoiding any iron or steel or magnetite in devices using this water. (Iron pyrite is non-magnetic, by the way, so I do use that.) As a test, I have taped powerful magnets on water wands, and they do "kill" the water within a couple days. Dragon Al of SAPS says he uses aluminum in the wands. (Incidentally, Dragon Al has wand tutorials in the tutorials forum at cloud-busters.com.)

[Update 10/13/04: I stopped using Sally's water some time ago, as I find labyrinth water more powerful-feeling. Also, as long as a labyrinth is taped, face-in, on the water container, it does not seem harmed by magnetism. Read all about it in OTB 12.]

If I take a copper wand of this water and touch it to an orgonite unit, I am impressed by the synergy. Orgonite by itself has remarkable and far-reaching effects on water. Orgonite apparently acts as a preservative for the second-generation water. Hence, my inclination is to add much more orgonite to wands than Al has been. Also, Al has been putting his orgonite in the positive end of the pipes, with a coil and crystal to further drive the energy forward. I suspect that this may not be optimal by itself. (My best units have this in addition to more orgonite around the base. Orgonite in the tip may be desirable for wands that you will be swishing the tip of in water, because orgonite in the water probably speeds up the energizing process. But one can also add an HHG or whatever to the water.) If the energy direction is through the water, then out the orgonite, any DOR would go through the water first, possibly eventually degrading it. In theory. Of course, actually, the orgonite radiates backward, too, and this is likely sufficient to keep the water stable. Nonetheless...

Here are four LLLs (Little Lollipops of Love). These are slapped together out of 1/2" pipe (13.325") and a 3oz Dixie cup. No silver wire. I still need to wrap the tips with aluminum tape, to secure them better. These are reminiscent of "Potato Masher" grenades, with a long handle for leverage when throwing.
But why throw pipe units in the river when one could just pour water in? Because the water will eventually become degraded by itself; if it is in a wand, it will continue to radiate and refresh the river until the water in the wand wears out, which may or may not ever happen. And even then, you still have something that is probably superior to plain orgonite in the water: the orgonite will charge the water in the tube, and the tube (I speculate) will enhance the ability of the orgonite to affect the water outside.
Each of these units has a single-terminated crystal siliconed into the cap in the bottom, point facing up.
Because I poured these before filling the pipes with water, it doesn't matter if the resin gets hot.

Construction warning: I have not had a problem when using the 3oz. paper cups, nor had a problem when using epoxy in the larger 8oz. cups. But, when casting 3/4" pipes in 8oz. cups using Bondo, the resin shrinks away from the pipe enough so that a gentle twist breaks the pipe loose, and it can easily be pulled out, leaving the cap behind, of course. [Update: It is best to take SAPS' advice on this, and seal the bottom of the pipe by smashing it flat, and bending over the end. This will give the orgonite something to grab. It also saves the cost of an end cap. I'm not sure how it affects length measurement, but even random lengths work pretty well.]

I find that I need to cut the pipe a bit shorter to allow for end caps, in order to end up with the best length. I recommend 13.325", 17", 523mm, or 26.65" overall tube length with caps. For smaller units, 6.6625" or 5". I have a great little 5" pocket wand.

I put one of these modified 17" quickie cat coils in the base of each cup, energy direction toward the tip of the pipe. Also titanium, aluminum, brass (no steel!) and other minerals to jazz it up a bit. Pascalite was added to the medicine wheel water. I always leave an air space to allow for freeze expansion although in many cases these will end up in deep water which is unlikely to freeze before the next ice age. But hey, one should think ahead for after the next ice age. Then I glued the other end cap on with clear, 100% silicone. This is not the most solid bond, so I wrap some aluminum tape around the tip for greater strength. Don't want the cap popping off as the unit leaves your throwing hand.

[Note 4/2004: Lately it has become more apparent to me that wand tips glued on with silicone or Welder glue seep. Even when carried or worn, they lose water over time without it being apparent until I open one up and see the much-reduced water level. This is not necessarily a big problem underwater, but deployed in the ground it will be.
Some people have soldered these connections. I prefer to cast orgonite over each end. But, be sure the orgonite itself is on securely! Also, for burial purposes, I now favor use of devices made with bottles, with the cap end up.]

I've also made these with 3/4" pipe, in which case I use a longer coil (26.65") in the cup. (These are funky coils; I use a different wire for finer items.)

Now here are some other grenades. "Orgonov Cocktails" I call them. These are 16oz bottles with muffin TBs on the bottom. Again, I eschewed all steel in these TBs, and put a cat coil in each, driving energy toward the wide base of the TB. Initially I glued the TBs to the bases with silicone, which is probably a good idea; but if you do glue them, be smarter than I was, and let them cure for several days (to set up the inside of the bond) before smothering them in airtight tape --Duh!
Optional taping of the muffins to the base, as shown on the right, should slow deterioration of the orgonite, should it contain steel, but it also channels more orgone into the bottle by acting as a reflector.
The bottles need not be glass; clear plastic ones work well, except they are lighter; more on this in OTB 12.

Make sure these don't float before deployment. I had left too much air space, to allow for freeze expansion, and belatedly realized they bob on the surface. These can also be buried in the ground. A nice, economical way to orgonise the homestead/garden. I place them with the energy direction downward.

Steel caps as shown here are not ideal. They will eventually rust out. It is better to use bottles that have plastic or aluminum lids. The first bottle shows some tape around the neck and lid. I cut aluminum tape lengthwise to get it skinny enough for this. This will greatly retard corrosion from without, but it will still deteriorate from within, I noticed.
The next bottle shows the lid completely covered

Want an easier and cheaper unit yet? Make some (iron-free) ice cube units small enough to put inside your bottle, or use wider-mouthed jars.

You may skip down to the part about Dragon Al's Cluster-Buster now, unless you are interested in some other historical info.]

Djembemon had posted on his idea of using copper tubing with air and minerals in it to make an external spiral coil. No doubt very powerful, but I went with a more modest doubled-twisted 14g magnet wire. To the left, you can see two units here under construction. (Tip: use a larger cup than I initially did, and leave a inch or so of empty cup above the metal, so that resin has room to pool and settle.)

Here is a completed one. Direction of crystals and cat coils is inward from the ends. Quite an orgone fix can be had by holding the center portion.

OK, those were my first two prototype dumbells. They are sitting in the bottom of lakes now.
Here's the next one. It has doubled-twisted wire cat coils on the crystals, as well as the bigger coils (as above) around the pipe ends. I put this spiral coil on the outside. Note how it flares like a Big Secret coil at the ends, and note that the end is turned back down. Also I put a thinner spiral coil of doubled wire inside.
This tube was packed with Celtic sea salt mixed with a little pascalite clay and activated charcoal, then the special water is added. Adding this salt really made it feel more powerful to me. The more salt, the stronger it feels to me. However, it lost power after some weeks. Also, it had developed an unusually heavy patina on the outside; more so than saltless wands develop, with dark purplish and green areas. Some of the decreased radiance is probably due to this, but that's not the main factor. Because of the corrosion danger, I had put nothing else inside the pipe but quartz and copper, not even silver, as I was concerned about the possibility of electrolysis brought on by the difference in potential of the metals. It was quite intense at first.

I cut this salty dumbell in half, to clean it out and make 2 lollipops out of it.
Catmagnet had reported that some wands she had put salt in had leaked orange liquid, and there was a big mess when she opened them back up. Since I had put many times higher a salt concentration in mine, and left it in several times as long, I expected to see a pretty nasty sight.
What greeted me when I pulled the 2 halves apart, was perfectly clean, shiny copper, and white filling. No faintest hint of corrosion. No pits, no discoloration.
Perhaps the pascalite and/or activated charcoal i had also added prevented corrosion. I had had a vague hunch that the pascalite might do that, but am not enough of a chemist to know if that's possible. Also, unlike Catmagnet, i had gotten as much air out of the tube as i could; she had left air spaces.
So obviously the loss of power is due to some other factor than corrosion. (Incidentally, the wand had contained 3rd generation Medicine Wheel Water.) I presume that the strong chemistry of the packed salt was too much for the water, and eventually de-structured it.

Would a lesser amount of salt be OK? I had really packed it in there to the max. I have cast into orgonite some water bottles with a more reasonable amount of salt, and these units seem to hold up OK.
I do not recommend putting salt in metal pipe, or in jars with metal lids. [Update: there are other cheap and more powerful additives than Celtic salt, such as pottery-grade spodumene].

New coil: I came up with a new coil for water grenades that have orgonite on one end only. The fat end gets covered in orgonite when making the end "TB". The loose end gets taped in place with aluminum tape. I use this coil in conjunction with a white coil as pictured above. Sometimes I even put a wrap around the crystal inside, similar to the one on the right, but out of doubled-twisted wire, and with the ends turned tipward.

Interestingly, at the time I made this up, Jon Logan had already been quietly developing a similar coil, described on
his site. His coil is not quite shaped for accommodating a pipe through it, but has some refined features that are desirable.
In fact, on my last batch, I paid more attention to the energy as I tried some of his features, and the coils I now use are more similar to his: a shorter base, and a longer, snakelike top end. Very unidirectional.

Dragon Al has come up with the
cluster-buster out of 1 1/2" pipe. There is some orgonite inside. The pipe has several mobius coils wrapped around it. They are passive (no frequency generator attached) and all linked in one continuous loop. The pictured one is for dry land use, hence he didn't protect the wires. He reports that this is extremely effective. [Picture respectfully ripped off.] And he isn't even using the Medicine Wheel Water now; just water stirred with a wand containing water that has been excited with a Power Wand.
He has also come up with the "Triniti" which is 3 of these wrapped together as one. People are raving about the effectiveness of these. Bigger mobius coils go around the entire group.

Sdbmark in Montreal came up with this 3-pipe beauty, which he calls the Detonator. He has a tutorial at the CB forum and a website at http://quebecorgone.com where he sells these and other orgone products at reasonable prices.

I made my own version of a Triniti, and you can read about it here.

More about the water: this particular water was charged on, as I understand it, a medicine wheel that is not of American Indian origin (despite the Indian term) and that actually is not a visible wheel with rocks in a circle. This water is amazing to an energy-sensitive person. I was inured to strong, juicy orgonite when I got this, but the energy of this water was a whole other level for me. If I bathe in it, I get left with an even greater feeling of well-being than orgonite-water alone will produce. Drinking it wired me out at first, and seemed to loosen my stool a bit. It seems to make everything positive somehow. Normally, wet, clammy weather makes me less happy, but this energy travels through all the water and probably the fog and drizzle, making the wet exhilerating.
I have been experimenting with the water at my job. Pouring it down the drain has evidently handled the problem we've had for years of stinky drains in the sinks. If I mop with the stuff, that appears to wear out the water. I say that because the mop will ferment and stink afterwards, as usual. However, if I soak the mop in clean, wand-treated water, that eliminates the funky odor.
Also, I placed a funky little "lollipop" (described above) on the pipes leading to the sink. Also an HHG, just for good measure. Now all water coming out is pre-treated. My hands can really feel the difference, as the "good" water makes them all tingly, seems to open the energy channels, and keeps them from getting dried out so badly.
Not only that, but apparently all the water in town is now like this.

Can similar water be created by other means? The general consensus is that the charge from Native American medicine wheels, at least, is temporary once removed from the wheel. Would orgonite preserve it?
Some people are reporting very good results with water that has been swished with a Power Wand (as described on the CB forum).
What if you don't treat the water at all? OTB 1 talked about distilled water, and how remarkable even that is inside orgonite. Adding a dash of pascalite clay boosts the energy considerably. Also, I can feel that a magnet against the bottle or pipe adds quite a bit to the power; the south end moreso (meaning the side that pulls the S of the compass needle). Again, I would not use a magnet near structured water.

Update! It now appears to me that distilled water is SUPERIOR for making second-generation M.W. Water. There's a thread on this at the water forum at orgonite.com. In a nutshell, I have found that if one stirs the distilled water with a copper wand filled with Sally's original water (and maybe lets the wand sit in there a spell,) the resultant brew acts like the first-generation water, in that it keeps its potency without orgonite, and apparently stays up-to-date with any improvements she makes. Apparently, copper colloids in the water (distilled water is very reactive) is necessary for it to hold the charge. So it must be distilled, and must have a piece of copper in it, at least for some time.

Alert! It appears probable that copper pipe end caps are being used in a dark radionic way. Sounds ludicrous, I know, but if you use end caps that have any logo stamped on the ends, please read Raypsi's
thread at the orgonite.com forum. Also, as mentioned in that thread, use steel wool or sandpaper to remove any ink on the pipes, and remove or strike through any barcodes.


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