Loohan Communications Office

Orgone Technical Bulletin #40
started Sep., 2011

Misc. Tech Ramblings #3


Sep. 15, '11: Awesome Pyramid Molds.

These are commercially-available flexible plastic molds a friend in Utah made me aware of. There are 2 kinds: a conventional pyramid, and a Mayan pyramid.

At this time I have only made 1, with the Mayan mold, which I think I like better than the conventional. It seems to have superior energy. Even the empty mold can be used as an energy device.

These are also available from other vendors, some may be slightly cheaper, but at the time I checked, all the others only carried one of the styles, so I would have had to pay shipping twice ordering from others to get both styles.

In order to shoot themselves in the foot, and make these less popular as molds, Educo cleverly chose to emboss its name on the inside of the molds. However, this can be more or less removed with adroit use of a single-edged razor blade.

Lubrication and de-molding: I use epoxy, which tends to be clingier than polyester resin, as it does not shrink as much when curing. I chose the lazy path, and simply sprayed the interior of the mold well with WD-40, then set it rightside-up for a few minutes to drain off the excess.
I did 8 pours, coming up to about 3/16" from the top of the mold. I let things stand for 2-3 days, as that makes the slow-setting epoxy come out more easily. I gently pulled the edges of the mold away from the bottom of the piece, and turned it upside-down on the hard floor. Pressed down a bit on the square tip, and the cast dropped right out cleanly!

If you screw up and fuse resin into to mold with excess heat, you could just leave the mold on, and use as is.

Also, either the cast piece or the exterior of the mold can be painted with metallic paints that you should program as they cure.

Sep. 27, '11: After doing 3 pours, I would have to highly recommend the Mayan molds. They really hold their shape well. The regular pyramids tend to have one side that bows in a bit.
The Mayan molds are one of my greatest discoveries. Even mediocre orgonite would be pretty good in these.
But here are some with non-mediocre fillings:

• 3 Mayan Pyramids
• 2 of these glued together
• 3 Mayan and 2 regular

Oct. 25, '11: Stress-Relieved Polypropylene for molds: Last August a friend sent me some molds he had made out of sheet plastic.

Here is something I made out of one of them. Here are some more.

Thus far I have not attempted to make molds with this stuff myself.
No lube is required, even with epoxy. And the molds take more heat than most plastic.

Some notes from him:

Lately I have been researching to find a mold that won't stick to resin and that would be reusable. Right now they are all based with the triangle figure.

All is made from one piece of plastic and it does work very well. Hot glue is used to seal the edges. The glue is removed upon disassembly to remove cast. Mold is then reshaped re glued and then ready for next cast. 1...2...3. It's perfect. Sharp edges and clean shiny sides.

Get "stress relieved polypropylene".
1/32" Thickness is too small to work with, bends and deforms easily.
3/32" is perfect to use.

1/8" is very thin and very hard to work with. (not to mention cutting and shaping)

Polypropylene has a mind of it's own. The polymer is tight and sticky. The best way to handle it, is to melt it. That's how I make the folds. Because it's stress relieved, the folds can be bent back and fourth many times with out breaking. (This is what I desire.) A knife cut is hard to penetrate the sheet because if it's stickiness. I have broken many blades trying to score it. It is very hard to judge how deep you are cutting. That's when I came up with the idea of melting it.
My first way to melt a fold was to use the Butane soldering iron with the rope cutter blade and a metal ruler. This works good for off site main power. Then I chose to make my own soldering iron tip for the purpose.
This is the Butane soldering iron available from like a Lowes or Home Depot or something.
Once you have a score it's easy to run a sharp razor through.

My inspiration came from this site. I print the designs out and trace the lines through the plastic.

I find hot glue to make the best temporary hold before casting. Goop works too but the set time is slow. This holds the mold together and prevents leaks. When the cast is completed the hot glue is peeled from the plastic and the mold is carefully separated from the cast. It really comes out seamless.

Removing mold: Take a pair of needle nose pliers or the like and turn off the glue in a turning motion like removing the lid off a can of sardines. It will also be easy if the hot glue is bone cold. Less tacky.

Some items he made: 1, 2, 3.
Note that I don't necessarily advocate going to all the trouble he did to make and pour into such complex molds as #3 especially. I don't find such elaborate shape necessary to get excellent orgone functions. But it is interesting what is possible. The mold he used for #3. I don't know how he got all the arms filled with resin.

Loohan

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