Loohan Communications Office

Revised, simpler version of Orgone Technical Bulletin # 33
edited & updated Feb., 2010

for the original OTB 33, click here

STRONTIUM-BARIUM Orgone Devices

Simplest cheap approach to being able to take advantage of the strontium program:

Forget all the complexity of the original OTB. Forget about silver, gold, the grey pgm, carnelians, blah-blah-blah. Passe'. Just forget it. Got enough out there already. The strontium-barium is the thing we really need. Maybe in a couple years we'll achieve saturation with this Strontium-Barium pgm, but now it is urgently needed in greater quantities.



Update late Aug. 2011: New simpler formula!
I had almost run out of my powder mix for this stuff, so my handlers recently had me batch up another 2/3 gallon of powder. The interesting thing is, it contains no strontium or barium this time... yet takes the pgm just fine. The Committee has figured out how to pgm it into stuff without those minerals.

Well, that 2/3 gallon still has some other hard-to-get ingredients. So I pressed The Committee to come up with a simple formula that almost anyone in the world can easily get all the ingredients for. So now the "Strontium-Barium formula" requires just 1 ingredient; unsweetened cocoa powder.

Here is a pic of my first cast with cocoa. I used 1/3 tsp to 6 oz resin, but 1/4 would have been fine. And as The Committee gets familiar with programing cocoa, it will take less and less, probably, over time. Any brand should be fine, and if it's old and stale and has cockroach eggs in it, no problem. And you can put in a lot more cocoa powder if you feel like it. As well as shavings, rox, etc. but for most gifting these additives are usually not worth it, IMO.

OK, now I hope to see a bunch more people in distant lands making this stuff.

And if you can get tulsi and turmeric, you can make the Violet Flame stuff. Even just a teabag of tulsi with a smidgeon of turmeric can make at least 2 gallons.
The Water Pgm still requires a pinch of fine silica.
For gifting certain locales, you might also be eligible for the Protective Pgm which requires no additives.
With these 3-4 pgms alone you can make amazing stuff.

End of update. What follows includes earlier instructions for using strontium for this pgm. Do not get confused. You do not need anything but cocoa anymore. But you can still use other mixes with strontium/barium if you want.



One way to do it:
Normally I prefer to mix the minerals with iron oxide red and other powders instead of shavings. But if good iron powder is not available, one can do this with metal shavings as follows:

Mix 1 tablespoon strontium carbonate powder to every 4 fluid oz. of resin (that's 1 cup strontium to every gallon of resin) and pour over any metal/crystal stuff you would ordinarily make TBs or whatever with.
[Update: It now requires only a touch of these powders! More on this later.] This strontium is cheap from potter suppliers like Bailey.
Be sure to get the resin programmed with the strontium pgm as it cures. This programming is free from The Committee (see glossary). You may email me in advance if you want to make sure to have The Committee standing by.

There is nothing particular about strontium or barium that make them inherently good additives. You are adding such things ONLY to CREATE a RESIN MIX that is capable of ACCEPTING and HOLDING this particular PROGRAM. You can't get it programmed with this after it cures. If you do not get the programming while it cures, you will end up with quite ordinary orgonite.

Any stones/metal you decide to use can be given other free pgms afterwards, such as the soprano pgms, right whale, Arcturan anti-evil, artemisia tridentata 2.14X, DA, AB... (These pgms are explained in OTB 27c except for the last 2 which are in the glossary.)
I let The Committee have reign to use their judgement here.

This will make excellent units by most standards.
I tried using just strontium powder with some aluminum and brass shavings instead of my usual powdered metals. Also on units larger than ice cubes, I sometimes like to add pieces of steel hardware cloth. Steel shavings are fine, too.
This simple, "white" strontium formula poured over shavings made units that are 96% as good as the formula I usually use for this pgm, which consists mainly of iron oxide red, with the strontium and a little barium carbonate (barium cabonate is toxic and not that much of a boost, but perfectionistic, intuitive crafters will want to use it), turmeric, petalite, spodumene, Alberta slip clay, and other less important ingredients (these minerals are also available from Bailey). Of these, it is mostly the iron oxide that is important. If you add enough of that alone to the strontium and resin, it will work fine with no shavings. Or even if you do use shavings, the iron oxide should still make the unit slightly better. I normally add no shavings when making tossable stronti-gifts, but misc. shavings are quite compatible with this mix.

(Copper, brass, bronze is fine to add in any quantities; the caveat in the original OTB pertained to another pgm we won't be using anyway.)
If you have any questions or want help, email me. I want to see people making this stuff.

But you do not HAVE to add any shavings (if you are using powdered iron) nor quartz.


Update May 20, 10: Lately, due to improved programming skills on the part of The Committee, less powder has been necessary in some programs, such as this one. These days I usually only put a well-rounded tsp or so of dark powder mix into a quart of epoxy, and I don't know what fraction of that is strontium and barium, in relation to the other ingredients.
[Update: Usually far less is needed these days.]
So if you want, you can get away with using less than was originally required, and still have equally good orgone even with no shavings. I have reduced the price of the strontium cubes as a result. I used to put quite a bit of powders into them.

When building more complex projects, sometimes I am guided to use thicker mix in some sections than others. And some of my big projects have several different S-B mixes in the different layers.
If in doubt, always use more powder.

Incidentally, this also applies to the Violet Flame program. Some of the VF stuff I make lately is quite translucent.

And I want to mention that alternately layering the S-B and VF programs is generally a great principle. Also where appropriate the new water-charging program can be worked as in.

June 3, '10: It amazes me that no matter how much I stress the fact, some people refuse to grasp that there is NOTHING SPECIAL ABOUT STRONTIUM as an additive, unless you are getting THIS program while the resin cures.
If you do not want to accept programming from my people, that is fine, but strontium is about the last thing you will then need. If you want to do your own kind of programming, fine. But I suggest spodumene powder instead (cheap from pottery suppliers). Use maybe 80-20% mix of iron oxide red and spodumene, and you will end up with something half decent. Still wimpy compared to the S-B programmed stuff, but nice.
Probably about 1 cup of this powder to a qt. of resin is good. Pour thin layers. Do not allow overheating, which will cook the lithium ions out of the spodumene.

In fact a bit of spodumene can be added to the strontium-barium mix if you are doing the program.
Always pour thin. If you're a newbie or using an unfamiliar type of resin, experiment with a few small things first to get the feel of how hot it gets.

Update: also see this.

Aug. 16, '11: I have been neglecting to mention that there is some experiential evidence suggesting that perhaps the Strontium-Barium stuff is effective against insect pests. Experiment. You can even use the ice cubes as radionics devices, if they have been made in the past 6 months or so. The Committee has for some time been able to imbue additional functions into resin. For example, even S-B and VF ice cubes and TBs these days have 99% STQ. So you can just instruct them to work on fleas, garden pests, or whatever bad insects.
It won't work if you merely stick some S-B stuff out there by the fire ants or whatever. It won't know to focus on the bugs unless you tell it to.

Mordok discovered this some time ago. He also noticed some kind of tiny non-physical beings that parasitize bad bugs' energy and seem to help a lot. He had some in his place back in FL, and I "imported" a bunch to my place. And he has them in his apt. in Leslie. They seem to do fleas and ticks, including eggs. They like the good orgone. You can probably get them to move in if you have good orgone devices.You can probably get them to move in if you have good orgone devices. At least if it's 80 degrees F or more. I think they dislike cool weather. Go dormant.

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