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Orgone Technical Bulletin # 24

started June 16, 2007


This started out on OTB 20, but I felt it deserved its own OTB. The first 3 entries I lifted from OTB 20:

June 11, '07: Orgone RoboCops:
I just put together a little system that detects and jails bad critters for me. The heart of it is a big chunk of my special quartzite set in orgonite with a silicon disk and 7 toroids under the quartzite. But any good, powerful orgone device should do. You have to be able to program it, though. And it needs an input and output line (though these could be etheric, probably).

What I did for input/output is have the 2 lead extensions from an internal mobius coil sticking out. Since wire has a natural + and - end, I made sure that the thicker wire I soldered on for extensions agreed with the mobius that way (ran in the same direction). Then on the input wire I have my receiver unit. More on that later. Also a ground lead.
On the output wire I have my big antenna unit that has the dry bottles and the big secret coil. And internal LEDs running. This is just for auxiliary power; one could put several devices on the output to help matters. For that matter, one could put several receiving antennae of different sorts on the input end.

The quartzite is programmed to use the input to detect certain nefarious presences and intentions, and to take action accordingly. These include moving bad guys into my jail. In fact, this rock by itself (I only cast it yesterday) has been my sidekick for some time. I have been telling it to scoop up and jail so-and-so, clear the bad ETs from there, cover me, clean the space around that person, etc. for some time. And it did OK, but by itself is not real good at detecting things I don't spoon-feed it. Not receptive enough. So a while back I dowsed all my stuff to find which items I have that are the most receptive.

What came up was a particular Aikido coil. Much longer wire than these depicted ones, 8awg. This pic shows the proper direction to wind it for receptivity. I separated the ends, soldered a lead on each wire end, and cast it horizontally partially submerged in clear epoxy with the leads sticking out from the base. Real nice. One lead goes to the input of the main device, and the other connects to the ground wire.
But don't panic; there are other excellent receivers. Although I haven't tried it yet, I get that ordinary telescoping antennas such as radios and cell phones use should work great. Or metal screen embedded in resin. Just as a couple examples. Maybe embed the base of antennas in a unit that also contains screen, all wired together.

I programmed it to bust any bad etheric critters messing with me or my allies. This latter detail is important for various reasons, including the fact that the enemy likes to capture and torture some allies to generate DOR to slam me with. I also specified that it should clear the evil ETs hitting me via plane noise, or energizing the "cell" towers to create scalar effects. And it works! Not always 100%, but pretty darn well. By itself, it takes care of the plane-noise ETs pretty well, as well as loads of other things, including some CIA astral attackers!

Then this morning, I added some more receivers wirelessly. Just connected them with my mind to the input unit plugged into the device. This includes several large coils dangling from my ceiling, as well as something I wear around my neck, and even my window screens. So now, reception is pretty good.

So you might try this. Take a powerful device, program your intentions into it, and imagine it being connected to window screens, taking in that info, grounding out the bad energy (if you have a ground connected to the device), and sending the intelligence to your device, which then takes action. Might work.

I just started using a neat "crutch" to program. I was thinking about how the SE-5 can send numerous freqs briefly in cycles as one program, so many seconds for each item. I got the impression that I could program crystals, water, orgonite, etc. to do this. So I typed up a text file with the desired program, copied it to a little digital camera disk from a defunct camera, then took the disk (a floppy or CD would work, too), and simply laid it on a crystal. It took several minutes the first time before the program was fully downloaded, but then, amazingly, it seemed to work! I then took the disk and programmed the big quartzite unit.

The 1st program has already undergone several embellishments. Each time I format the disk and re-load it with the new version, then mentally delete the old one from the crystals, then re-load them with the new version. Here is the program as it is right now. Feel free to modify or invent your own. I have a different one for embodied Earth humans, but don't want them to see exactly what I'm hitting them with.
(Yes, these critters have DNA, apparently. The reason for the monoatomic gold is that it is my impression that insectile demons and reptilians love this particular positive frequency. I once tried it as a weapon, and found it seemed to strengthen them. So then I hit them with it accompanied by energies toxic to them, and it seemed to drive them nuts.
TPR stands for Total Personal Responsibility.)

If you get hit by "karmic" energy kickback from sending harmful energies, simply re-route this stuff to the recipient of your choice.

Sending a sequence of shifting energies seems remarkably powerful. One could use the principle for healing, too.
I haven't tried running it through a dial box. I doubt that would work well, as the trend constantly changes. But one could run it through an amp.

June 12, '07: I am really liking this. Occasionally the bad guys storm me all at once to try to overwhelm my capacity, but it never gets too scary.

My hunch is that the computer aspect of the setup is functioning fine, and that I only need to concentrate on reception and enforcement power. I get that my reception is at 84% of its potential. I have another antenna nearing completion, that I think will raise that to 93%. And another being hatched that might bring it to 100%.
My impression is that copper is the best metal for the antennas. The unit I'm finishing up pouring has loose-pack, fluffy shavings of nice copper Archie sent me a long time ago. I didn't want to make it too dense. The next one will also use that metal, and some zinc-coated brass "needles" I have. I get that zinc is very good, too. Brass can be as good as copper or slightly inferior, depending on the alloy. Aluminum works but is a bit inferior. I'm not getting a green light on steel, magnesium, or titanium for receptive units.

There is something about the size mesh of common aluminum window screening that seems very suited for picking up energy. This is fairly good stuff.
And I'm lucky to have some copper screen of the same mesh as window screen. Recommended to have, if you find some.

It is better to avoid aluminum shavings and use copper in any orgonite parts. But actually, orgonite is not necessary in an antenna. Yet the right orgonite (with "approved" and fluffy metals) is good.
I am making units with copper shavings, embedded copper screen, and antennas sticking up. The first one has no quartz, but wouldn't even be helped by it, particularly, I get. It has 2 cell phone antennas I got from the $1 clearance box at the local Radio Shack.
The second has a copper wire antenna, and I get that it would be helped by quartz.

Using their networks: I just realized that I can, with my antenna unit, tap into all their grids, towers, etc. All that stuff is packed with information about UFOs, illuminati, etc., and one can just intend that the unit gleans this info and sends anything relevant on to the core unit. That is, any info that aligns with what the system is supposed to pick up on gets sent.

Changing the subject: I keep forgetting to post this orgonite tip; pottery supply companies sell iron oxide red and spodumene. Bailey's has good prices, although their shipping costs more than the merchandise.
These are some of the best things around. If you mix 4-5 parts iron oxide red with 1 part spodumene, and stir that into resin even with nothing else, it will be very good orgonite.

June 13, '07: Yowzah! I hooked up my new "rabbit ears" and, instead of 93%, it brought me up to 95%! This figure is for connected hardware, and doesn't factor in "wireless" antenna units.
The connected ones are what take in the emanations from the remote antennas (like the GWEN system), so any increase in effectiveness can have broad implications.
I should mention that I have ordered a couple cheap electret microphones which I dowse as at least as good as anything I can make. I'll let you know in a few days.
Also, I dowsed that some piezo-tweeters are just as good, though more expensive. I get that these hardly transmit any subtle energy when no electricity is going to them, but are very receptive. One that impressed me is POWER ACOUSTIK NB-1 180 Watt 2-Way Mount Tweeters. But I found some just as good on a 1999 pair of PC speakers I had laying around.
Such things probably work much better when not embedded in resin.

June 16, '07: I just received my electret microphones: ELECTRET DESK MICROPHONECAT# MIKE-75 at allelectronics. The active ingredient is a tiny cylinder in the mouthpiece with 2 wires coming out. But I decided to use them on their stands, sticking straight up. I merely clipped off the last few inches of wire with the stereo plug, stripped the other wire, and crimped 2 connectors onto each unit. Spliced them into my antenna circuit.

I get that, used alone, one would get 94% reception with one, 95% with two. But since there is a lot of overlap with the 2 receiver devices I already have, they only boosted me from 95% to 97%. One would have boosted me to 96%. I still haven't made that other antenna device.

Wikipedia link on electret mikes.

Incidentally, if you place an order from these guys, here are a few other little things you might want to invest in which I wlll explain what to do with some day (goldmine-elec.com also carries most of these items under different #s):
XDR-24, CRY-4992, PE-53, CC-202. They also carry the good kind of multicolor flashing LEDs, UV LEDs, pots (I got some LTP-10M), knobs, etc. I got some WG-1 conductive glue which I haven't tried yet, but which may come in handy at times. I got some 1593-YBK project boxes which should make slick little mini dial boxes.

June 17, '07: Oh, yeah, if you're into electronics, you might also get a MK-4001 amp kit. I got a couple of these elsewhere for $20.50 each, but those were pre-assembled. They are good amps. Jon Goldman uses one. I blew one out, but I had neglected to use a fuse, and was running it for long periods on a high-ampere electric source. I did get a free replacement capacitor from the company. One day I'll post how to hook these up.

June 21, '07: Progress on the antenna front, though perhaps a bit incomprehensible...
This item is actually 2 things taped together with aluminum tape. On the left is a particular ultrasound transducer. On the right, one of the tweeters from my old speakers.

I had dowsed that these particular tweeters provide 97% receptivity, yet intended to use them for something else. I've been scheming on a non-electric subtle-energy amplifier. I thought maybe if I pointed a transducer (very transmissive of subtle energies, and, although supposedly receptive of ultrasound, not very receptive of subtle energy) right into a tweeter, I might get "over-unity" and an amp effect. Indeed, I was planning to hook up another set like this in series, and thought it might provide a slight amp effect.

But I changed my plan when I realized that this thing, like it is, picks up 100% of subtle energy. Why, I don't know. Also don't expect me to explain the logic of how I wired it. I just dowse around and come up with weird things that seem to work for some reason.

When I taped these together, I was careful to leave a small gap of about 1/16", the distance where I felt maximum resonance.

On the back of these transducers are 2 prongs coming out. One is insulated from the case, the other contiguous with it. The insulated one is output (for subtle energy at least) and the other input.
There are also 2 wires on the back of the tweeter. One was soldered to a small component, presumably a choke coil, but it did not have good energy so I cut it off, leaving the bare wire in the first pic. The black wire I connected to the input prong of the transducer. However, I think the tweeter wires are interchangeable.
In the 2nd pic, you can see that I shortened that black wire (for tidiness) and rummaged about on my filthy floor for a couple discarded pieces of wire insulation, which I slipped over the bare wire and the output prong. You'll see why later.

Then I soldered the blue wire onto the one tweeter lead, wrapped a bare portion of it around the output prong of the transducer, and left a long lead which will be the output lead for the unit.

Then I bent the white prong over to the left for compactness.
And taped over that connection.

Then I put a glob of hot glue on the base of the output prong for insulation. Also on the joint on the back of the tweeter.

Then, I drilled a 1/16" hole in the bottom of an old plastic film can. Stuffed in a small amount of fluffy bronze wool (fluffy copper shavings would be just as good), stuck in the antenna, a bit more bronze wool, and closed the cap. The reason for the wool is more receptivity, even though I dowsed I had 100% without it. Bronze is mostly copper.

Et voila, a very compact, lightweight receiver that's as good as I know how to make them so far.

Tomorrow morning I will pull the RoboCop 2 computer unit out of its mold. A much smaller version than RoboCop 1, eventually probably destined for an attache-case mobile radionics array. This antenna may end up in there, too.

But first, a test drive. I unhooked all my other input antennas from RoboCop 1, and replaced them just with this modest unit. I had 97% before, now I have 100%. My RoboCop has achieved Total Omniscience, and thanks to a couple lotus coils, tremendous enforcement power.

Note: I am of the impression that one could devise an equally effective antenna out of one of these transducers and the little cylinder from one of the recommended electret mikes. With about a 1/8" gap between. If one figured out how to hold the pieces in position.

April 11, '09: It's amazing how the technology I'm involved in has evolved. I have integrated the concepts above into many other devices. Programming of stones has advanced so much that a modest-sized stone can hold many times as much info as a huge one used to. And the receptivity thing is much simpler and more compact now.
Here's my ultimate robocop so far:

There's a new sheriff in town, and here are some of the things he does well:
  • Automatically seeks out and de-cloaks factories where evil astral entities produce etheric weapons (like crystals, rings, wands) and etheric implants
  • When found, automatically vacuums up the offending objects, and also as many of the perpetrators as feasible
  • And notifies the proper authorites about the location, so they can eradicate what's left.

    This is his forte and prime mandate. Unilateral disarmament. Of the enemy.And he hasn't failed yet in the several days since I made him.

    Also if I suspect a base or perpetrators of crimes, but am unable to detect them, he will gnaw and gnaw at their cloaking until I can find them. Also he has some value as a remote protector of persons.

    Arguably the wildest and most sophisticated device I have made yet. Channeled from higher dimensions. I don't understand how it works. It is mostly clear epoxy with misc. electronic components. A surprising number of capacitors of different shapes and sizes. A mobius-wrapped crystal someone gave me in the center. A seashell, a few other little rocks, some tulsi stems in the base that you can see the bulges of in the pic below.

    The black box contains a variable speed 555 pulser circuit as well as a mono pre-amp.

    There are also 3 LEDs I access from the bottom. I created this cavity for that and to place a passive-tuning potentiometer and whatnot.


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