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Orgone Technical Bulletin # 16

May, 2005

High-Energy Clear-Casting

About February sometime, Clyde showed me some devices he had cast. Despite having a lot of clear resin with nothing in it, these were impressive. One had no metal at all, just a crystal. It had a nice energy to it.

He had accomplished this by beaming a frequency at the molds while curing.

Apparently, clear, unadulterated resin will take and hold a much stronger charge than quartz or orgonite. However the addition of orgonite provides greater power due to synergy. Orgonite takes in negative energy and processes it into positive. The clear stuff presumably does not work the same way, but is more like an intense gem, radiating the energy it is imbued with.

To me, this sort of clear+orgonite device feels much more powerful than any orgonite.

Alternating layers seems to be a very powerful practice. I use a fine powder orgonite mix for these, as I generally prefer to make the orgonite layers thin, and don't want to mess with shavings, though they can be used ornamentally. See some pics.

I started a forum thread on this, which turned out pretty interesting. The forum is now defunct, but I saved the thread as a text file, which I will email out on request.

Apparently people did something similar decades ago with acrylic, but it would lose potency over time. Since orgonite will preserve the potency of second-generation Sally water made with tap water, it follows that it probably would preserve it in resin, too.

But what if you cast resin just plain, with no metal at all in the unit? Will that lose potency? Well, whether it does or not, it's probably generally advantageous to put at least a thin layer of orgonite on it, but I thought I'd try dowsing this. I recently realized I can "dowse" with my mouse cursor by typing out questions and answers, and mousing over the answers:
Will a 100% clearcast unit, no additives, lose amplitude or frequency over time?   YES   NO

Will it retain 100% potency indefinitely?   YES   NO
I get no and yes.

I have a plywood box I made, big enough to allow room for plenty of improvements over time.
I have eclectic layering with state-of-the-art power graphics driving upward at the pyrex baking dish, and all kinds of goodies around the periphery of the dish, touching it. Also, a few inches below the layering is a shelf that supports several special yantras, etc. for right now.
Whatever you do, it has to be very powerful to make this technique worthwhile. I highly recommend you read OTB 15, because I think this will enable you to concentrate the freqs of your choice to as high an intensity as you like. I suggest pics of such things as gold, monoatomic gold, precious stones, labyrinths, etc.

I have water in the dish, and set the molds in that. Then I pour a layer of clear resin with absolutely nothing mixed in. When it sets up enough, I may drop a coil on the new surface, maybe a few metal shavings.
Then I pour the second layer, which is fine powder orgonite with many wonderful ingredients.

And there is unlimited potential for improving the setup.
And I still haven't put in the earth-battery powered coil(s), the sound system, or a few other ideas I have.

If you make different items with distinctly different freqs, and touch them together, you will have a remarkable synergy.

I think this has application for gifting because of its superior intensity and power.
No need to buy expensive ingredients. Find a pic on the web and process it. No need to use up the fine ingredients you have; just put them in a glass jar and touch them to the charging tray.

I think soon I will cast a cylindrical "crystal" for my wand. Why not? It holds far more charge than quartz.

The disadvantage is that the setup is elaborate and space-consuming. And in my case, quite small in capacity.

Anyway, I am going for it. I am offering units made this way. See my products page. I think I can offer more power for less money than most of the competition. Of course, they'll probably all follow suit soon.

June 8, 2005: Here's a comparison of 2 "crystals". The lower one is a fairly decent self-healed Arkansas quartz, and the top one is pure epoxy. Both have been charged with the same stuff, but the epoxy one was charged as it cured, whereas the quartz one was charged some considerable time after crystallization.
There is no comparison. The epoxy one feels several times as good to me.
It is about 2.25" long, poured into a shampoo sample bottle. Wish I had more similar molds. I intend to make a bunch more "crystals" soon, but they will be larger, as I lack suitable skinny molds. I am afraid epoxy would stick to PVC pipe. I need something I can peel off easily.
I didn't bother to try very hard to avoid the little bubbles. I figure, perhaps they will add power, due to the myriad resonant cavities. Though it might be best to have the front end somewhat clear like this.
It naturally cures with a strongly upward direction. This might be enhanced by pouring in thin layers, I don't know. In any case, it is quite unidirectional as it is.
If I put the tip of the epoxy "crystal" to the butt of the quartz one, the effect is most unimpressive. But if I put the tip of the quartz to the butt of the epoxy one, there is very good synergy. This suggests that units like this would be good to drop down CB pipes, on top of the crystals. I donated all my pipes to Clyde, so I can't test that, but I'm sure it would kick.
Another possibility, especially attractive to those without a charging setup, is to pour directly into the pipes of an existing CB. Here's how I would do it.

[Update Oct. '06: I can't recommend clearcast as a substitute for crystal. I especially notice it if I take a cast "crystal" as depicted above, and wrap a mobius coil around it. It feels nice enough, but somehow lacks punch. On the other hand, embedding a vial partially filled with charged water within the cast makes it feel more like a crystal. Or embedding a crystal.]

I expect to be using this type of crystal in the future for a lot of things. Remote charging, for one.
The beauty is, one can make oneself a crystal any size one can find a mold for, that is vastly superior to quartz (at least for what I use crystals for) for a fraction of the price. Why buy crystals at all?
A couple days ago I also made some "TBs" using clear ice-cube "crystals":

I made a bunch of clear ice cubes.
Then I drew symbols on them with metallic ink, to draw more energy into their cores. Then I sandwiched a flat SBB coil between each pair of these. (The bases of the cubes come out a bit concave when cured; this creates a little space for the coil.) Then I wrapped a bit of electrical tape around the equator, to hold the cubes together, and incidentally to trap a small air pocket (resonant chamber) between the cubes, along with the coil. I ended up with a dozen "crystals" which I then each set on end in a paper cup. I put pure magnesium shavings in the cups, and poured epoxy mixed with a bunch of special powders.You can see the ice cube ends on the bottoms. These units have a fairly diffuse field, with more coming out the bases. I stacked some base-to-base in the pic.
I believe these have excellent output for their size.

May 9, 2005: Yesterday when I posted that pic of the 2 crystals, the epoxy one was vastly superior. But now there is much less difference, as the quartz one has increased in charge.
It seems I did add something to the epoxy while it was curing that I had not done to the quartz. For some reason, it did not transfer when briefly touching the 2 together. Now I have (and I'm working with Archie on this, too, so he may have something to do with it) added this to the quartz, and it is likely that the additional charge will transfer throughout the rest of the charged crystals in the network.

Incidentally, this charge that Chris put into crystals is something new, never before done in the universe, Archie and I believe. I and others have charged distant galaxies with it, and the charge seems to hold. Apparently, no-one else has been doing this in the universe, although it only takes a few minutes to "do" a galaxy.
It's kind of magical and interactive, and we're not sure what its limitations are. We are not sure how much we can pack into quartz before the quartz can no longer be coaxed into retaining more. But so far, the resin (and it doesn't have to be epoxy, though Archie says epoxy will hold just slightly more charge than polyester) seems distinctly superior to quartz, and cheaper.

Update Oct., '07: Well, I'm still doing clearcast as, at least, part of most things I make. Often part of a unit will be clearcast, part of it powder mix, and maybe part of it metal shaving without powders.

I no longer feel that it is that significantly superior to quartz in terms of the energy it will hold. The main difference is that resin is best programmed while it is curing, and such programming is largely permanent and unerasable.

One actually can make an orgonite device with a water bottle inside. I suspect this holds programs better than quartz, as long as it is inside orgonite. Then, when your stuff is curing, you send it good programming with your radionics box or whatever. Simultaneously send the program to the water unit. The water will retain the program like a hard drive, and next time you want to cure something using the same freq, you just mentally call on the water unit to bombard it with that program, leaving your rad box free for other pusuits.
The orgonite need not even be close to the curing resin, as long as you mentally connect them.
One can also have good, powerful spirit entities bombard the resin with good energies and specific functions. This is what I mostly do lately, but I am hesitant to recommend it because so many people out there are hobnobbing with demons and evil ETs that they think are angels, ascended masters, etc. and who will put in evil programming.


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