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Orgone Technical Bulletin # 15

May, 2005

Advanced Power Graphics

This bulletin builds on OTB 12; Power Graphics. I have recently discovered some things which raise this technology to a much more powerful level.

Introducing also the Orgone News Bulletin, a frequently updated chronology of technical news and global adventures.

Shrinking and Tiling (S&T):

I recently realised something about graphics: the energy of a picture does not reduce when you shrink the size! A 3 pixel by 3 pixel version of a pic brings through the same energy as a 1000 X 1000 version of the same pic. So by shrinking it, you are compressing and concentrating the energy into less space.
So the logical thing to do is to shrink a pic real tiny, tile it (I have been using my desktop wallpaper function for that,) then take a screen capture of that (there is various software for doing this; I have been using ArcSoft PhotoImpression for lack of anything better). Then I crop it to remove the icons and window bottom from the capture, shrink that down again, tile again. Repeat as many times as desired.

The color and texture of the graphic becomes more and more uniform until it is more or less just one undifferentiated color.

A graphic like this has orders of magnitude more power than one copy of the same pic normal-sized.

The question arises, why would a simple graphic of colored "nothing" have power? Why does the energy transmit to the paper, when there are no lines or anything visible to "do work"? Paper is not known for its ability to take or hold much of a charge. Why would a pink thing such as this one convey its power to the paper?
The conundrum gets worse; this brings me to the subject of

White Pics:

It is possible to turn most pics white (or any other color) after they have been S&T'ed a few cycles. The pic still has the same strength of energy, though the quality is affected by coloration. And guess what? You print off this pic of just white, and it comes out with the energy! Run it through the printer several times, and the energy increases each time. Why? I don't know. The print head isn't even moving.

Update 6/3/5: I had a moment of panic as I bought a new printer, and the charge did not transfer on white prints. I thought maybe this only works with some printers. But it turns out the charge does transfer; the printer was just malfunctioning, and probably wouldn't have printed a color graphic if I'd tried.
I haven't tried this on any other printers. I presume it will work on any printer.
Incidentally, for what it's worth, I recently dowsed how permanent the charge is on white "printing". I get a little over 75% is permanent, and 100% if ink is used.

I usually don't S&T it to the point it's completely uniform. This often won't turn completely white, but end up pinkish or off-white. In fact, I don't even turn them white anymore. I might turn it another color to sweeten it a bit if the one I end up with is unpleasant. What I do now is print it with empty cartridges. I set it to Highest Quality and really make it work hard to print nothing on a page. This is much more powerful than with completely white graphics that run through without any print head movement.
For that matter, you can print off any power graphic with empty cartridges in your printer, and the energy will transfer.

My impression is that the charge is permanent, but I have only been at this a few weeks. It is weaker to print a pic without ink, but by making the pics real strong, and copying over several times (one can even print different pics over each other), one can acheive as much as much power as one wants. And still print ink over that, if one happens to have a functioning printer.

Advanced Gravitoning:

I discovered that if you graviton a pic (copy and paste it over itself), you can do better if you also graviton the pic in different positions. For example, I will graviton it the usual way, then rotate it 90 degrees, grav it more, flip it vertically, grav it, then horizontally, then 90 degrees more, etc. This seems to result in a much more powerful graphic.
However, lately I haven't even been doing that, as I have found an even more rewarding way to spend my time: S&T and a type of gravitoning I do with MS Paint.
I open the pic (usually one that has been S&T'ed) in Paint. Then I go Edit, Paste from, and paste another copy over it. For some reason, this seems to me much more powerful than the usual way of copying and pasting in place. This works real well with the S&T graphics. The one time I tried regular gravitoning on one of these, it made it worse. (On the other hand, a graphic that had been gravitoned before S&T turned out well.)

But one needn't only paste the same pic. One could paste another one of the same or smaller size. One can alternate layers of S&T versions and regular versions of the same pic, leaving whichever one on top that is desired.
One can then S&T this much more powerful pic again.

To sum up, here's what I do in Windows:
[note: this is how I used to do it. Revised version is further down the page.]
Open the graphic in an editor other than Paint. (When I try to shrink a pic in Paint, it just chops off part of the pic.)
Shrink it down to the neighborhood of 4-8 pixels per side. Save. Close image.
Open the saved graphic in Paint. Then hit Alt+E for Edit, F for Paste From. Choose the same graphic and paste it over itself. I repeat this a couple times. After 3 or 4 pastes of the same thing, there seem to be sharply diminishing returns for my effort. Save.
Then, still in Paint, I hit Alt+F to open the File menu, then B for "Set As Background (Tiled)". This quickly tiles the tiny pic on your wallpaper.
Then I take a screen capture of the wallpaper. (After I have swept away excess desktop icons into an ad hoc folder.)
Then I open the capture in my first graphics program, to crop out any icons and the window edge. Then shrink it down again and repeat everything for usually 3-4 complete cycles. If you use a higher monitor resolution than 800X600, it would compress more per capture.
The last time I crop out a capture, I resize the image (after rotating it 90 degrees if appropriate), usually not worrying about the distortion of the width:height ratio. This will "warp" the energy a little, but that's probably not a bad thing. I find 770 X 1175 pixels prints out with the pic almost covering a full letter-sized sheet of paper.
I'm also liable to use Paint to paste different pics of the same size over each other. Each layer adds energy, but again, after several pastes the returns get less impressive.
Such composite pics can be again S&T'ed.
Then I will print different full-sized graphics like this on the same sheets of paper, using empty cartridges. I then have a radiant piece of plain-looking paper. This can be used for correspondence with entities in need of a covert boost of positive energy.
But I am usually going to use it for eclectic layering, so I will then print once with ink. With ink is somewhat stronger.
Then I'm liable to draw words and symbols on it with fine-tipped markers, especially metallic if available. This old-fashioned manual method still adds tremendous energy.

This green pic is an example of one made according to the above instructions. It is from a pic of a potted plant's leaves.

What plant is this? It is one with extraordinary life-force.

(answer here)

Update September, 2005: I should mention that one can use words to define the subject of the pic, instead of a graphic representation. I mostly use S&T pics to create a witness for a target that I wish to address with orgone. Places, beings, concepts, can all be captured in words. One can dowse for the best choice of wording.
Here's how I make S&T pics now: Shrink the pic down to 1 X 1 pixels. Set screen resolution to max. Tile pic on the desktop.
Warning: If you use Windows Desktop to tile, there are a couple pitfalls to watch out for:
a) By default it wants to stretch, not tile. You need to be sure to select "tile" each and every time.
b) If you already have one version of an S&T you are working on on the desktop, and you want to replace it with a newer, stronger version that you have saved UNDER THE SAME NAME, as I usually do, it will NOT replace the older version with the newer version, unless you first select another desktop image (I just click on anything in the list they offer) first, to clear out the old one. Then you will have to navigate to the pic again and tile the new version. Remember, it will want to stretch it by default.

Next, I dowse how many times this particular pic should ideally be shrunk. This is not necessary, but good for those who can do it. Many pics require 8 or 9 times; some require only 2 or 3. I think the max I've done is 10.
Then, I take the screen capture, open that in a program, crop and shrink it to 1 X 1 again. Then tile that, etc.
If I have made a pic out of text, I will usually remember to save a small version of it under another name. This is the legible version that goes on top of the finished product.
On the final shrinking of the non-legible S&T'ed version, I shrink it to the same size as the legible version.
Then I open Paint. I dowse how many layers I should alternate of these 2 pics. I usually get anywhere from 2 to 18 or more. If an odd number, I will first open the legible version. If even, I first open the S&T version. Then I alternate pasting (Alt+E, F) the 2 versions, ending up with a legible one on top.
Here's an example of the kind I make now. I make them small.

[Important Update Feb/07:] There's a free program for Windows available here: the PC Image Editor, an MSPaint-like program that S&Ts in one easy foolproof operation. Just open the image, go to Filter ---> Reproduce, set the sliding scale to the right. Repeat as many times as desired.


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