Loohan Communications Office

Orgone Technical Bulletin # 13

Feb, 2005

Powders in Orgonite

I find that to make real strong orgonite, I need to mix a lot of high-energy powders into the resin. I use metals, metallic compounds and metallic minerals, non-metallic minerals, herbs, activated charcoal, special ashes, a bit of clay.

In the beginning, I made orgonite with just resin, epoxy, stones, and coils. Then a bit later added crushed pyrite, etc. in relatively small amounts. Now it's to the point where I sometimes mix in as much powder as the epoxy will bear (which is quite a bit) and sometimes no larger metal particles at all (good for thin discs).

Some of the guys who were making orgonite before Don Croft came along have always made it with just a mix of powders, and even believe shavings and BBs are a disgrace to orgonite. I haven't gotten that impression; see my page on comparing. Certainly, for generously gifting the environment, it makes sense to use free or cheap metal resources that do work well, and mix powders into it.

I have been batching up powder mixes that contain only high-energy ingredients. The jar of dry powder alone has a real strong, rich vibe. Most of these powders are listed here.
It is possible that orgonite ingredients that approximate a diverse blend of nutrients are going to be more beneficial to have near living things. It is also possible that herbs can transmit some of their efficacy via orgonite. Some people are experimenting with mixing pharmaceutical drugs in, and claiming to experience effects from them. I have scant interest in pharmaceuticals, but the principle might well apply with herbs, homeopathic cell salts, etc. I suspect there is a lot of workability to it, but am still pretty new to using herbs in orgonite.

As much as possible, I try to get ingredients fine enough to stay suspended and pour through metal shavings. However, if you are making orgonite with a thick mix and no shavings, you can use some coarser ingredients.

Resin issues: I use Kleer-Kote epoxy from shopmaninc.com, which works excellent with a lot of powders mixed in. The powders only seem to add to the viscosity (up to a point) and make it penetrate well, leaving no bubbles (providing the epoxy was warm enough) at the surface where it sat in the mold. However, a thick mix will often leave a rough, finely bubbled, surface at the top of the pour, maybe even a slight bulge in the center. I think this depends on warmth, and on how thick the mix is.
You want to keep your curing cool, so it doesn't smoke and bubble, leaving an unsightly top surface and volatilizing lithium ions, volatile herbal essences, and other good things.
Kleer-Kote epoxy full of powders will heat up on a pour larger than a tray of ice-cubes. I understand polyester sets up hotter with powders, too. When feasible, I set the molds in a charged-water bath both to conduct a charge into the curing resin, and to draw away heat. Be sure the jacket of water around the mold is large enough. I once had a big pour overheat badly because the water container wasn't big enough, and the water got hot.
I poured that item too fast, also. On real big items, I now pour only a small fraction, wait an hour or so, pour a bit more, etc.
Even on medium-small pours, it is often best to do more than one pour.
I haven't used polyester resin in a couple years. Be experienced with it before adding too many powders. Also, from what I remember, polyester does not keep heavier particles like pyrite sand afloat; heavy ingredients will sink to the bottom.
If you get into make fine "medicinal" units with fancy herbs, you might want to switch to epoxy. I say this because I suspect that the harsh toxic peroxide catalyst used with polyester may have a bit of a deleterious effect on herbs.

My epoxy has about a 45 minute pot life, the label says. I never keep it around without pouring for very long.
Since it takes longer to set up, that means it will seep into any absorbent organic ingredients like herbs, especially leafy herbs. I once mixed a goodly amount of very dry sage tops powder into the mix, and had shrinkage occur as it cured. In subsequent pours, I have been careful to be moderate in the use of leafy matter, and to add the herb powders first (after mixing the epoxy components) and stirring real well and letting them sit a few minutes before stirring in the metal/mineral mix.
I keep the two mixes separate.
In my most recent pours, I used about 1/4 herbs and 3/4 metal/mineral mix, which seems to work well. [Update 3/07: Generally, I now use only rather small amounts of herbs, which I believes is usually better, anyway. Usually, a small amount will give you all the benefit available. Though occasionally I will put a moderate amount of powdered root like turmeric.]

Herbs are more perishable, and should be stored in a cool, dark, place. Though the best herbs to use are probably those that do not lose much potency due to degradation of oils over time. I have had lavender oil, stored in a dark place at room temperatures, go very weak after a few years. It was in a small, tight jar, so I suspect that volatilization of compounds was less a factor than deterioration.
Orgonite should pretty much lock in volatile compounds, especially if epoxy is used, but they may still degrade over time. Unless the orgonite has a significant preservative effect; I don't know about that.

This doesn't mean I avoid aromatic herbs, but I prefer to rely mostly on less volatile ones, like turmeric, for example, which is a very good herb for orgonite. It has quite a powerful field. It is also a beneficial herb, especially for the liver.
One of my readers sent me a pound of turmeric he got for $2.69 at an Indian ethnic grocery store in a US city. Many other great ingredients are similarly cheap. You may be in or near a town with such a market. If so, you should pick up some ingredients.
Of all the powders you are likely to find at such a place, I most highly recommend you invest in some sindhooram AKA sindur, if you can discern energy and feel it is potent. Some isn't. $1 for 1/4 cup in a small bag. This actually does not contain herbs, but is powdered decomposed iron compounds (like pyrite) I am told, with an incredible vibe. Very strong. That is, if you get a good batch! Here's a scan of two almost identical packages of a common brand. One is far better than the other. The second one is not worth buying.
What is most amazing about this substance is, if you make a paste with a bit of it and some vegetable oil or ghee, maybe also a small pinch of turmeric, and rub it on any metal object, it will greatly increase the energy of it. Even aluminum tape, let alone copper pipe, coils, etc. It also is very good on stones. Quartz picks up quite a charge from a rubdown.
[Update 6/07: I just learned that Sindhooram, Sindur, etc. consists mainly of lead oxides. Use caution in handling.]

I'm still pretty new at this, but so far feel that turmeric is the dominant herb to use, of those that I have used. On my last batch I used 3 parts turmeric, 1 part ginger, 1 part hot chili powder (cayenne is fine, too). Hot pepper of any kind and ginger are reputed to make sinners want to come clean.

There are many good herbs I have not yet tried. Dandelion root is strong, and has no significant volatile essence. This would probably be very good. Ashwagandha is an important Indian tonic herb. [Update 3/07: I consider the best herbs to use for boosting orgone amplitude to be turmeric, Siberian ginseng, tienchi ginseng, and chuchuhuasi. Ayahuasca vine is also very good in some formulations. So is holy basil.]

I am advised that it is not ideal to stir too many different herbs into the mix. Additional herbs may be best added as whole pills, or little balls of herb rolled with honey. This is because herbs and traditional Eastern herbal formulas have a distinct signature that might get muddied in a complex mix. Incidentally, homeopathic cell salts can also be added using the whole little pills. Biochemic Phosphates complex is a very good one.

[Update 3/07: Some of the most highly recommended powders usable in macro quantities are magnetite (quality varies), iron oxide red, and spodumene. And if you can afford it, get some silicon and antimony trisulfate from Micron Metals or the like, and add that in moderate amounts to your best projects, and tiny amounts in the others.]

Loohan

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